Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book encompasses the first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry VIII (1509-47) and covers the dress of the king and his immediate family, the royal household and the broader court circle. Henry VIII's wardrobe is set in context by a study of Henry VII's clothes, court and household. As none of Henry VIII's clothes survive, evidence is drawn primarily from the great wardrobe accounts, wardrobe warrants, and inventories, and is interpreted using evidence from narrative sources, paintings, drawings and a small selection of contemporary garments, mainly from European collections. Key areas for consideration include the king's personal wardrobe, how Henry VIII's queens used their clothes to define their status, the textiles provided for the pattern of royal coronations, marriages and funerals and the role of the great wardrobe, wardrobe of the robes and laundry. In addition there is information on the cut and construction of garments, materials and colours, dress given as gifts, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress within the royal household, and the network of craftsmen working for the court. The text is accompanied by full transcripts of James Worsley's wardrobe books of 1516 and 1521 which provide a brief glimpse of the king's clothes.
| ISBN | 1905981414 | | Pages | 488 | | ISBN13 | 9781905981410 (What's this?) | | Volumes | 1 | | Publisher | Maney Publishing | | Weight (grammes) | 2331 | | Imprint | Maney Publishing | | Published in | Leeds | | Format | Paperback | | Height (mm) | 320 | | Publication date | 27 Sep 2007 | | Width (mm) | 245 | | Library of Congress | 2008378231 | | Spine width (mm) | 32 | | DEWEY | 391.022094209031 | | Academic level | Professional / Scholarly | | DEWEY edition | DC22 | |
|
|
|
ContentsIHenry VIII: The Man and his ImageHenry VIII's physical form ~ The king's painted image ~ Charting change in the king's appearanceIIHenry VIII: European Prince and King of EnglandMagnificence and the role of royal dress ~ Asserting royal authority through dress ~ Creating a sense of Englishness through dress ~ Henry VIII in a European context ~ Henry VIII's interaction with the three leading European powers: the Papacy, the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire ~ Royal wardrobes and royal style: analysis of four case-studies: Elegant conspicuous consumption of clothes: Francis I; Following French fashion: James V; Growing disinterest: Charles V and Masking failure: Christian IIIIICreating Magnificence: The Role of the Great WardrobeThe great wardrobe: its function, premises and staff ~ The queen's wardrobe ~ Great wardrobe documentation: warrants and accounts ~ Evidence of clothing provision found in other royal accounts ~ The price of magnificence: the budget for the great wardrobe ~ Selecting fabric for the king ~ Other royal fabric stores ~ Suppliers to the great wardrobe ~ An absence of objects made by the great wardrobeIVThe Cycle of Royal Life: Coronations to FuneralsCoronations ~ The regalia ~ Coronation robes: the joint coronation of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon; Individual coronations: Henry VII and Edward VI, Mary I and Elizabeth I; Queen consorts: Elizabeth of York, Anne Boleyn; Henry's other queens ~ Betrothals/Marriages by proxy, Henry VIII's betrothals, Prince Arthur to Catherine of Aragon, Margaret Tudor to James IV of Scotland, Mary Tudor to Charles, Prince of Castile, Mary to Louis XII of France, Princess Mary to Francis, the Dauphin, Princess Mary and Charles V, Prince Edward and Mary, Queen of Scots ~ Marriage, Henry VIII: Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard, Catherine, Lady Latimer (nee Parr); Establishing the dynasty: Henry VII and Elizabeth of York, Prince Arthur and Catherine of Aragon, Margaret Tudor and James IV of Scotland, Mary Tudor and Louis XII of France ~ Christenings: Henry VII's children, Henry VIII's children, Other royal christenings ~ Churchings ~ Preparation for death: Henry VII ~ Obsequies: the living remembering the dead ~ Funerals and burial: Henry VIII, Henry VII; The Tudor queens consort: Mothers of sons: Elizabeth of York and Jane Seymour; the Princess Dowager: Catherine of Aragon; Execution and private burial: Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard; Surviving the king: Anne of Cleves and Catherine Parr; The king's sisters: Mary and Margaret Tudor; Royal children: Infants; AdolescentsVHenry VII: Establishing the House of TudorMale dress in the late fifteenth century ~ The Yorkist courts ~ Henry VII ~ The opulence of Henry VII's court ~ Henry VII's wardrobe ~ Elizabeth of York ~ Lady Margaret Beaufort ~ Henry VII's children: Prince Arthur, Princess Margaret, Prince Henry, Princess Mary and Prince Edmund ~ Catherine of AragonVIHenry VIII's Wardrobe Unlock'dHenry VIII's wardrobe: male dress in the first half of the sixteenth century ~ Creating and defining the male image: gowns, doublets and hose ~ Variety in the male wardrobe: the glaudekin, gabardine, cloak, frock, coat, cassock and nightgown ~ Alternatives to the doublet: jackets and jerkins, chammers and shamews ~ Accessories: partlets, placards, stomachers, petticoats and tippets ~ Clothes for bathing ~ Sporting dress ~ Clothes for combat and the tilt yard: brigandines, bases and base coats, arming doublets and hose ~ The king's linen: shirts, night shirts, night caps and handkerchiefs ~ Headwear ~ Footwear ~ Gloves ~ Girdles ~ Purses and pouches ~ Swords and daggers ~ Walking staffs ~ The king's jewellery ~ The use of jewels on the king's clothes ~ Material choices: textiles fit for a king ~ Rainbow colours: the significance of colour of the king's clothes ~ Patronage and perquisites: giving away the king's clothes ~ Gifts and purchases: adding to the king's wardrobe ~ A point